9 Tools I Regret Not Buying Sooner
A seasoned woodworker walks through nine tools he wishes he'd discovered earlier — not beginner basics, but overlooked or underrated items that solve real shop problems. The emphasis is on tools that are cheaper, more versatile, or better-made than the obvious alternatives most beginners default to. ---
Key Concepts
| Concept | Definition |
|---|---|
| Portable drill guide | A drill-press substitute that clamps to the workpiece and guarantees repeatable 90° (or angled) holes |
| 20mm dog hole system | Standardized hole pattern (96mm on center) used in MFT tops, Ron Paulk benches, and outfeed tables — enables modular jig attachment |
| Chamfer dogs / Power lock dogs | Bench dogs with a beveled rim that sit flush in chamfered dog holes; eccentric-nut versions lock the dog (and anything attached) securely to the surface |
| Universal fence clamps | Hook-and-knob clamps that attach jigs/accessories to any table saw (or bandsaw/miter saw) fence via drilled holes |
| Scribing | Running a reference pointer along an irregular surface to transfer its exact profile onto a workpiece for a perfect-fit cut |
Notes
1. Portable Drill Guide (UJK brand)
- Replaces a drill press for accurate 90° holes — and is *easier* for angled holes than a drill press
- Cast aluminum body, steel guide rods — avoids the cheap plastic versions common online
- Accepts bits up to ~2¼ in; non-slip rubber pad on base
- **Key tip:** clamp it down when using large bits (e.g., Forstner) — hard to hold steady one-handed
- Slots and threaded holes allow bolting/screwing directly to workpiece
- V-groove cradles for drilling into round stock (dowels, etc.)
- Each guide rod has an independent **depth stop** — can set two different depths for complex ops; also holds carriage open during bit changes
- Two onboard centering pins for perfectly centered holes on board edges
- Verdict: buy this *before* the drill press; more value per dollar at the start
2. Pocket Hole Jig (Enjoywood, not Kreg)
- Almost entirely aluminum and steel vs. Kreg's mostly plastic construction
- Smaller form factor, better fit and finish, and **cheaper** than Kreg
- Same hole patterns and capacity as Kreg
- Depth-of-cut set on base with scale; separate depth gauge tool included (easier to use)
- Markings in both metric and imperial for clamp depth setting
- Includes a **low-profile dust collection port** — fits Festool vac hoses
- Dust port is removable (thumb screw) and attaches to an included portable guide for large workpieces
- Segmented guide rods with stop blocks for consistent spacing
- Jig base is only ½ in thick → can be embedded flush in an MDF platform (Kreg's 1 in base prevents this)
3. Dog Hole Chamfer Tool + Power Lock Dogs
- Chucks into a drill; cleans out dried glue/debris from 20mm dog holes and adds a precise chamfer in one pass
- **Chamfer benefits:**
- Breaks the sharp edge → prevents chipping when sliding work across the top
- Allows **chamfer-ring bench dogs** to sit perfectly flush (no overhang) — creates a clean, flush reference surface
- Enables **power lock dogs**: eccentric nut tightens with an Allen wrench, cinching the dog against the underside of the top
- Power lock dogs have 20mm spacing (96mm on center) matching MFT/assembly table grids → any jig with matching holes locks down instantly, flat and secure, with fasteners completely out of the way
- Creator's custom pocket hole jig platform uses this system
4. Universal Fence Clamps
- Hook on one side, clamping knob on the other — attach to the top of a table saw fence via drilled holes in a jig
- Use cases demonstrated:
- Sacrificial fence for dado/rabbet cuts
- Mounting a router fence to the table saw fence (infinite adjustability by moving the fence)
- Also work on bandsaw and miter saw (stop block)
- Typically sold in pairs; creator keeps three pairs in the shop
5. Flexible Aluminum Straight Edge
- 3 ft version ~$10; available up to 6 ft
- Rigid enough to guide a circular saw or jigsaw for straight cuts in sheet goods
- **Flexibility** is the key feature: can be clamped vertically and bent to a curve → trace sweeping curves for templates (e.g., desk front profiles) with both hands free to mark
6. Stud Buddy (Magnetic Stud Finder)
- Torpedo-level form factor with embedded magnets on the back
- Drags along the wall; magnets catch on drywall screw/nail heads → marks exact stud location
- Built-in level confirms the stud runs plumb
- Advantages over electronic finders:
- No batteries
- No false positives from pipes or other objects (magnets only catch ferrous metal fasteners)
- More reliable; cheaper (½ to ⅓ the cost of electronic units)
- Verify stud spacing: distance between catches should be 16 in or 24 in (US standard)
7. Small Parts / Fastener Organizer Bins
- Problem solved: random drawer of mixed fasteners → unknown inventory → unnecessary store trips
- Key features of chosen system:
- Large tray capacity vs. older small-bin systems
- **Clear** bins — inventory visible at a glance
- Come with labeling system; creator adds front-facing printed labels for visibility from a distance
- Stackable with interlocking ribs — won't shift on shelf
- Stores construction screws, cabinet screws, pocket screws, Dominos, etc.
8. Multi-Function Scribing Tool (Saber brand)
- Core use: runs a reference pointer along an irregular surface and scribes the profile onto a workpiece
- Additional functions in one tool:
- Holds a **deep-hole pencil** (included) or Pica pencil
- Pencil holder **pivots out** → functions as a compass for arcs/circles
- Onboard **trammel point** → draws circles up to ~17–18 in diameter
- Pencil inserted in reverse orientation → consistent layout/joinery marking along board edges
- Folds compact; easy to pack in a tool bag
9. Dead Blow / Non-Marring Assembly Mallet
- Context: the creator does a lot of cabinet/furniture assembly using dowels and Dominos
- Why other mallets fall short:
- Large joiner's mallet (solid white oak): too heavy, will dent work — reserve for heavy mortising
- Steel hammer: will tear up plywood and hardwood
- Carving mallet: designed for light, controlled chisel taps, not assembly
- Chosen mallet: **hammer-sized dead blow** with two interchangeable heads
- One harder plastic face, one rubber face
- Small enough to reach tight spaces
- Enough weight for forceful assembly blows without marring surfaces
- Works on both plywood and hardwood
Actionable Takeaways
- If budget is tight, buy a **portable drill guide** (UJK) before a drill press — you get most of the accuracy at a fraction of the cost and space.
- Evaluate the **Enjoywood pocket hole jig** as a direct Kreg replacement — same function, all-metal, lower price.
- If you own an MFT or similar dog-hole top, get the **chamfer tool** and a set of power lock dogs to make every jig lockable in seconds.
- Drill a couple of holes and pick up **universal fence clamps** — instant, adjustable accessory mounting on any fence-equipped tool.
- Keep a **flexible aluminum straight edge** (3 ft, ~$10) in the shop for both guided cuts and curve templates.
- Replace electronic stud finders with a **Stud Buddy** — more reliable, no batteries, lower cost.
- Dedicate a visible, labeled bin system to fasteners to eliminate mystery-drawer trips to the hardware store.
- Consider a **multi-function scribing tool** before buying separate scribers, compasses, and trammel points.
- Match your mallet to assembly work: a **non-marring dead blow** (hard plastic + rubber heads) protects finished surfaces better than a joiner's mallet or hammer.
Quotes Worth Keeping
I find using magnets to locate studs in the wall is a little bit more reliable over time than using the electronic ones — you don't have to worry about dead batteries, and those are also prone to giving you false positives because they can locate things like pipes and other objects inside the wall.
What I'd call it is a simple MDF platform that I've packed with features.