DIY How To Make A Router Plane / BCDesign01
A simple router plane can be built from scrap pine, an old chisel, and a single bolt. The chisel is driven into an angled hole in the wood body and locked in place with a locking bolt, producing a functional tool capable of cleaning dadoes and similar joints. ---
Key Concepts
| Concept | Definition |
|---|---|
| Router plane | A hand tool used to cut or clean the bottom of grooves, dadoes, and rebates to a consistent depth |
| Dado/dado joint | A channel cut across the grain of a board, commonly used in shelving and casework |
| Blade locking bolt | A secondary bolt drilled in at ~45° to jam the chisel in place and prevent it from shifting during use |
Notes
Materials
- Scrap pine board: 220 mm × 75 mm × 30 mm
- Old chisel (acts as the blade)
- One bolt (for locking the chisel)
Laying Out the Body
- Find the centerline of the pine board
- Mark a point 30 mm in from the back end — this is where the blade hole will be drilled
Drilling the Blade Hole
- Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the chisel width (for a snug fit)
- Set drill angle to approximately 45° — use a speed square as a guide
- Pre-indent the drill point before starting to keep the bit from wandering
- Keep the drill as steady as possible; lateral drift will cause the chisel to sit crooked
Installing the Chisel
- Insert chisel **bevel down** into the hole
- Ensure it is not tilted left or right
- Drive it in with a mallet until snug
Adding the Locking Bolt
- Drill a second hole at ~45° intersecting the chisel hole (from the side)
- Thread the bolt in so it jams against the chisel, preventing movement during use
- To adjust depth: loosen bolt, tap chisel from the back to move it, re-tighten
Testing
- Tested on a dado joint — performed well on first pass
- Initial problem (chisel shifting) was fully solved by the locking bolt
- Both sides of the dado were cleaned up successfully
Actionable Takeaways
- Use a drill bit *slightly smaller* than the chisel for a friction-fit hole — too loose and the bolt alone won't be enough
- Always drill the blade hole at ~45° and keep the drill level laterally; skew causes the blade to track off-center
- Add the locking bolt as a non-optional step — the chisel will move under mallet pressure without it
- To retract the blade, loosen the bolt first, then tap the chisel from the back end
Quotes Worth Keeping
For a tool that's basically made of a scrap piece of wood and an old chisel and a bolt, I don't think you can go wrong — and it's a bit of crack to make your own and actually use it to make a dado.